Mini Sue - 1988 City Rebuild

Boot Floor

"After many pints in the pub I plucked up the courage to bite the bullet and go for the lot"

When I bought the car I was told that the front was all done and that it was the boot that needed some work. Once I'd stripped it down I could see straight away where some of the problems where going to be.

The rear wheel arches had rotted through a little at both ends and at the shocker mount. I could plate them up and bought a repair panel for the shocker mount for now.

I bought a repair panel for the boot too which at first had looked ok but after a bit of prodding was shown to be full of holes. At the time I thought this was the only repair panel you could get which is a shame as it only covers about 1/3 of the boot.

Here you can see the patches on the rear of the wheel arch. Not the prettiest as I was still trying to remember how to weld.

While welding in the new boot floor panel I kept finding more and more areas that would need patching. I was also amazed at how thin the metal had become which was making welding very difficult, it was like welding Rizla papers.

Drastic action was needed! I went to go see the fella at Back-to-basics the Mini restorers down the road at Milnsbridge. A lengthly discussion started about what I could do about the boot floor. Turns out there is a new heritage panel which will replace the whole floor and back seat pan (where I also have some holes to patch). But theres a catch. If you are replacing that then you might as well replace some other bits while your at it...So the shopping list for a new boot floor now looks like this:

Boot floor panel
2 rear wheel arches
Rear bin closing plates
5 bracing brackets
Rear valance
2 Rear valance closing places

After many pints in the pub I plucked up the courage to bite the bullet and go for the lot. It means alot more work but it might be easier than patching up all the boot and will be much cleaner and stronger too. I just worry about how much of the original car I'll have left!

A stroke of luck?

While getting some other parts from Back to Basics here in Hudderfield I asked about getting the new floor panels. A quick price check came to over £500 for heritage panels! While that was being added up though I was eyeing up a stripped scrap Cooper which was minus a roof around the corner. It had some bits on it that I fancied, you know those little niggly bits that you don't even know the name off, door check straps, new boot seal, door light buttons, etc. Then I checked the boot which looked to be in really good nick. Malcomn spotted me and had the same idea. "Its a good book that. Make me an offer..."

So the deal was done and I was the proud owner of a scrap cooper which looked to be in really good shape except the smashed in front end and lack of a roof. Trouble was how to get it home. Enter Dan the man from next door. Originally we where going to get his works transit but that did not show so we hatched a plan in volving a petrol Stil saw, a few metal cutting blades and a astra van. Heres the result:

Once back at Dans works I set to stripping the shell of anything useful (seals, gromits, catches, etc). Scrapped the rest of the shell and then set to on the boot. I used a gas axe to cut it down to size (which was fun) then drilled out the spot welds and ground off the rest of the un-needed metal to end up with just the wheel arches, boot floor, rear seat pan, rear valance, boot hinge panel and most of the heel board.

I had to do two patches where the re-enforcement plates go under the rear subframe mounts as they where not sealed up and had let water get in and rot through. Shocking really as its only 7 years old. The build quality of these shells is just disgusting, I love them but can't believe simple details like sealing something like this where not done. No wonder they are called rot boxes. Anyway I also welded up the old drainage plugs as I they seem to be a source of rot on my old shell. No chances here, sod making it "As good as when it left the factory" I want it to last.

The whole boot was then sent to be sand blasted and etch primed. I then sealed everything up with stikaflex sealant although I left anywhere where I was going to be welding as stikaflex burns real well!

Doing the chop

To get the new boot fitted I had to lop out the old one which is not easy task. I could tidy up the replacement boot easily as I could just chop out anything in the way, this time though I'd have to be a bit more careful.

I started by drilling out as many of the spot welds as I could get to. Doing it now meant the shell could take it and I'd have something to press against when drilling. I then marked out a cutting line 5cm up from the lip at the top of the rear valance, where the bumper attaches, all the way alone until it meant the boot opening itself. Then it was a simple job of cutting everything away. I cut the wheel arches first close to the lip where they join the car. Then I cut them again around where they attach to the rear pocket. Then another cut up either side of where they attach to the rear seat upright. Then I cut the length of the boot floor close to the rear seat upright, around the seat belt mountings. Finally two big cuts just below that 5cm line (So I'd have a bit to play with later) and bingo the whole lot dropped out.

Pleaty still to do, got the rear seat pan to come out and the heel board. But its a start. Need to get it all cleaned up and ground down ready to offer up the new boot and get it tacked in place. Then paint time!